Tuesday 31 May 2011

Camlin House

What have Grainne O’Malley, the famous pirate Queen of Mayo, The St. Laurence Family of Howth, The Great Famine,  and the Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church got in common? Amazingly enough, each have a connection to Camlin House in Ballinameen, Co. Roscommon.

These days we talk of six degrees of separation and wonder at isolated incidents in history that form a collective relationship.  Camlin House is such a place.

Elizabeth O’Malley, a direct descendant of Grainne O’Malley, married John Irwin in the winter of 1798. 
Grainne O’Malley was mistress of the seas… and legend has it mistress of her own destiny on land also.

  A formidable lady, she outwitted diplomats, met Queen Elizabeth I and married advantageously; twice.  When her second husband Burke of Mayo became a political liability, she is alleged to have taken residence in one of Burkes castles and declared herself divorced from the ramparts and promptly kept the property!

Whilst sailing on the eastern shore of Ireland Grainne O’Malley took shelter at Howth Harbor.  Having secured her ship she then sought the hospitality of the St. Laurence family.  On reaching the house, St. Laurence refused to greet her or offer her refreshment.  One can only imagine that Grace was slightly peeved and on her way back to her ship, she encountered a young grandson of St. Laurence and promptly lifted the child and brought him to her sanctuary at Clew Bay in Mayo.
 
St Laurence immediately set out to Mayo to negotiate and pay whatever ransom Grainne demanded for the safe return of his grandchild.  At their meeting Grainne  offered up the child immediately but on the condition that no one would be refused hospitality by the St. Laurence family thereafter.  Much relieved; St Laurence agreed and to seal the deal offered a ring to Grainne as a token of the pledge.

When Elizabeth O’Malley married John Irwin, this ring formed part of her dowry and was subsequently remodeled into a broach which ended up in the possession of the extended family in New York.
Elizabeth and John Irwin had eight children and resided at Camlin House. Camlin derives its name from the stream which runs through the townland also named Camlin. The name Camlin means crooked line or stream.

Camlin Townland was the seat of the Irwin family and was a large estate of approximately 15 square miles.  Under the Cromwellian ‘Act of Settlement’, lands were confiscated and given to Cromwellian planters who became landlords in later days.  Initially the lands at Camlin which are within the old principality of Moylurg belonged to the Gaelic Princes McDermots.  The Camlin lands were originally given to Lloyds and sometime in the early 1700’s passed to Irwins on the condition that they would drain, improve and plant the land.

 Camlin house is built of stone and faces north.  Commissioned by Andrew Irwin; a team of men were employed at seven pence per day to construct the family home and plantation of Great Sycamore or Plane Trees along the drive and demesne.

The eldest son of Elizabeth O’Malley and John Irwin married Ms Emily Bolton of Monkstown Castle, Dublin,  and his brother Andrew married Belinda Bolton; sister of Emily.  Mr & Mrs Andrew Irwin resided at Ballymore… another story!
 
John Irwin Junior was 37 and Emily 20 when they married in 1837 and resided at Camlin House.

John Irwin was an acknowledged man of the world.  Hard working, a keen huntsman local socialite.  His pert wife Emily was a noted horsewoman and hostess. They were sociable and apparently lived a happy existence.

Unfortunately in 1842 John Irwin died having caught a chill after hunting and Emily was left with three small children, a large mortgage and to cap it all; Ireland fell into the throes of the Great Hunger.

But Emily had spirit, a tremendous sense of altruism and was a member of the Established (Episcopal) Church. She borrowed money, negotiated with the Bord of Guardians and Poor Relief Trustees to set up a school and gave to and taught all regardless of religious persuasion.  Despite religious opposition and political discord, Emily soldiered on.
 
Having moved proverbial mountains, Emily became ill herself in 1848/49.  The famine fever threatened to take her and Rebecca Irwin, a sister-in-law contacted Reverend John Hall at Emily’s request.  Rev John Hall, worked as a "Students' Missionary" in the west of Ireland between 1849 and 1952 and was based in Camlin. According to records, he did a great work for religion and charity and was never selfish in any respect.  

Apparently, Reverend Hall admired Emily very much and he was much  distressed at her condition,  he pleaded with Emily not to die.  To the great surprise of all present, Emily rallied and when she fully recuperated, she and the Reverend Hall married.

Shortly afterwards, Rev. Hall was invited to the U.S.A. to preach.   He became an ardent citizen of the USA and in 1867 Dr Hall was installed as minister of the Presbyterian Church in the 5th Avenue, New York City, U.S.A. His obituary in the New York Times stated “The triumph of Dr. Hall's life was the gorgeous Fifth Avenue Church building, which so long as it stands will be the most appropriate monument to his labours.” That edifice is probably the largest church of the Presbyterian denomination in the world, and cost not less than a million dollars.”

Rev. John Hall and Emily had three children by her first husband and five of their own to educateThe eldest son of Emily and John Irwin, also named John joined the British Army and at the age of 45 returned to Boyle to refurbish Camlin house.  To his dismay, he found that the house had been taken over by Mr Lloyd of Croghan who owned the mortgage on Camlin. 
Camlin House and its diminished lands were subsequently leased for a time by various people and by 1952 the once great estate had been reduced to 47 Irish acres.  Camlin eventually came into the ownership of Thomas O’Connor a schoolmaster and former lessee of the house and land.  In 2006, Mr O’Connor’s heirs sold Camlin and the remaining lands of 20 acres to Liam Kerins of Boyle.
 
Camlin House was a shell, little remained of its former glory and even less was acknowledged of its colorful history.  Liam Kerins and his sons have rescued the house from certain ruin.  Re-roofed, insulated to present building standards with the old farm walls and driveways under restoration, Camlin awaits the sixth degree of separation……  It remains to be seen, who will take up the challenge.


Camlin house is situated in Ballinameen, Co. Roscommon.  I became interested in the property when, through my work, I visited the property prior to its rescue.  Naturally, I became interested in the family who resided there also.

  

Rushfield House

At the time of the first Ordnance Survey Mr. A. Irwin is noted as the occupier of one of two ''gentlemen's seats' at Tullyvohaun, barony of Boyle. In 1814 it was the residence of John Irwin. This property was valued at £8 and was occupied by William Phibbs at the time of Griffith's Valuation
In the Irish Census of 1901 Rushfield belonged to John McWilliam, a widower aged 65 with his son Johnston aged 30, his daughter in law Alice aged 25 and grandson John Alex, an infant .  John Mc William was born in England and in or around 1918 the Commons and Greham families bought the lands at Rushfield.

The Greham family are now in the third generation of ownership of Rushfield. 



Irish Famine Report

From Boyle, County Roscommon (1846)

Extracts from Joseph Crosfield's Report of his journey in company with William Forster, made to the London Relief Committee of the Society of Friends.

Boyle, 5th of 12th Month, 1846.
In this place, the condition of the poor previously to their obtaining admission into the work-house is one of great distress; many of them declare that they have not tasted food of any kind for forty-eight hours; and numbers of them have eaten nothing but cabbage or turnips for days and weeks. This statement is corroborated by the dreadfully reduced state in which they present themselves; the children especially being in a condition of starvation, and ravenous with hunger. Last year there were no such cases as these; the poor coming into the work-house then from the pressure of temporary difficulties, and remaining there a comparatively short time.

From Transactions of the Central Relief Committee of the Society of Friends during the Famine in Ireland in 1846 and 1847

The Irish Famine - By Pat Kenny

It began in 1846,
When hunger stalked the land,
But was the cause potato blight,
Or was it God’s own hand?
Some who died got watery graves,
Far away from church and steeple,
But those who left they brought their faith,
To other Nations’ people

Some fell by the roadside,
Cold sweat upon their brows,
Their faces lean, their mouths were green,
From eating grass like cows.
O why did this all happen,
We can only say Amen,
And the ways of God are wiser,Than the feeble minds of men.

The Famine now is history,
And Ireland’s fields are green,
We should all thank God for what we have,
And what it might have been.
We should not be too complacent,
As we take it in our stride,
And hear the echoes from the past,
To dampen down our pride.

Navarino House

Just down the road from Dickies is a house named Navarino which belongs to the Little family. 

The name in itself is unusual but a curious coincidence is that the naval Battle of Navarino was fought on 20 October 1827, during the Greek War of Independence (1821–32) in Navarino Bay (modern-day Pylos), on the west coast of the Peloponnese peninsula, in the Ionian Sea.

A combined Ottoman and Egyptian armada was destroyed by a combined British, French and Russian naval force. It is notable for being the last major naval battle in history to be fought entirely with sailing ships.

The present resident of Navarino informed me last night that the house was named after a member of the Fry  family fought in this battle.  The Fry family were based at Frybrook House in Boyle. I do not have any further information on this for the present but hope to have some in the autumn.

The Stone Serpents

The only tradition connected with St. Patrick in this neighbourhood is that he turned two serpents into two large stones which are still to be seen on the hill of Ardeash in the parish of Ardcarna. 

They used to leap from hill to hill and devour everyone they met, and when St. Patrick was passing through Moylurg, he desired not to pass in the direction they used to frequent, but that man of God, who was neither afraid of the Devil himself nor his satellites, passed that way with real Christian fortitude, and encountering two demons in the shape of two serpents, succeeded in transubstantiating their spiritual and assumed corporal essence into stone!

And they must remain on the hill of Ardeash until the day of judgement comes, when they are to be judged by Christ and Patrick.  That’s all.
John O’Donovan

Cavetown & Moylurg

Yesterday I traversed the parish called Easter-Snow, and ascertained the sites of two castles of which the sappers have taken not notice.  There are (1) The Castle of Moylurg, and (2) the Castle of Baile-na-huamha, now called Cavetown, from a very remarkable cave near it. 
The Castle of Moylurg, of which the foundations only are now traceable, stood on a remarkable rock, which was anciently almost surrounded by water; it lies opposite the remarkable stone called Clogh-a-Stuakeen, and immediately to the right of the road as one goes from Boyle to the village of Croghan.  The people of that neighbourhood thought it was the celebrated “Castle of the Rock” but I have satisfied them that it could not be, as the Rock (or Carrig Mac Dermot), the very celebrated fortress of Moylurg, is always spoken of as a rocky celebrated fortress of Moylurg, is always spoken of as a  rocky island in Lough Key.  The situation of this on of this castle, on a rock nearly surrounded by water, has given rise to this mistake, and thought it is locally called the Castle of Moylurg, I fear it would be an error to call it Moylurg Castle on the Ordnance Map.
The Castle of Baile-na-huamha or town of the cave (so called from a remarkable cave, which goes, according to vulgar tradition, all the way to Kesh Corran) was situated between the Lakes of Clogher and Cavetown, and within about seven perches of The Fish House.  But very slight traces remain now.  The tradition in the country is proved by the testimony of the Annals that there was a castle at Baile-na-h-umhach (Na Humhaidh) which belonged to the branch of the McDermots, now vulgarly called the Bundoon family in consequence of their poverty and pride, and in contempt for their having lost the fertile plains of Moylurg.

John O’Donovan 

The Road Through Eastersnow

If you’re not an Irish music fan Its time you did begin
We’ll take you on through Croghan by the back road from Elphin
We know you’ll like the countryside as further north we go
Our port of call is Dickie’s on the road through Eastersnow.

CHORUS
You’ll meet Una, Breege and Eileen, that trio they’re so cute
Plus two Pats – no caps or hats
And Charlie on the flute
For music and for talent – sure it is the status quo
You’ll find it all at Dickie’s on the road through Eastersnow

The atmosphere is friendly there, They make you feel at home
You’ll get no better welcome no matter where you roam
With all the friendly faces there – they surely let you know
You’ll get Céad Míle Fáilte on the road through Eastersnow

You’ll meet the finest dancers there to give them all their due
They’ll do the Stack of Barley and they’ll Shoe the Donkey too!
And when you hear the singers there – you know they’re not too slow
They’ll surely rise your spirits on the road through Eastersnow.

Pat Kenny

Pat Kenny

I saw the late Pat Kenny in Dickies’ on a couple of occasions and was struck by how the assembled company enjoyed his songs and ditties which identified not only the local landscape but some of the idiosyncrasies of the local populace!

Pat Kennys’ renditions were interspersed by interjections from the audience, sometimes gently berating the author and at other times egging him on.  When some of the more serious compositions were recited, you could hear a pin drop in the lounge and even the patrons in the bar would go silent.

One night I engaged Pat in chat and asked him had he written his compositions down and made the remark that it would be a pity if they weren’t recorded for posterity.  Pat felt that his work wasn’t worthy of such attention but I must have impressed upon him that local oral history very often disappeared with the composer because some weeks later when my husband and I were in Dickie’s, Pat pressed an envelope into my hand.

To my shame, I held the envelope and did nothing until I heard of Pat’s tragic death on 24th of January last. However, as Pat would say, better late than never – I have typed out the contents of the envelope and essentially have not added text or edited grammatically.

I am grateful to Dickie and Una Beirne who as usual preformed as intermediaries with Pat’s family to inform them that some of Pats work remains and is appreciated and recorded.  The original scripts, some of which are handwritten have been returned to his family.

Dickie Beirne’s Pub At Eastersnow


For those of you who have not known the pleasure of a night in Dickies’, you are missing the opportunity to experience a type of socializing that is rapidly disappearing in Ireland.

Dickie’s is located in the parish of Croghan and the quaintly named townland of Eastersnow.  The pub has been in the Beirne family for three generations and for Dickie its not a case of making a living from the pub, it’s his way of socializing. 

Each evening the fire is lit in the lounge and Dickie stretches in his chair which is strategically placed to see both entrance doors to the pub and to enjoy the heat of the fire as he watches TV with his dogs spread-eagled by the fireplace.  When the door opens, all are greeted by name and as if they were expected.  If the guest is a dog lover, Dickie makes a desultory effort to tell the dogs to get up but if there’s a stranger in the company Duke and Tipp are commandeered to the kitchen.

Each Saturday and Sunday night parishioners of Croghan, Ballinameen, Boyle and Elphin slowly meander to the lounge or bar, and settle into their preferred seat. 

Some nights a group of traditional musicians will gather, many of whom would command substantial fees for performing in the National Concert Hall or significant  venues at home and abroad, but in Dickie’s they are welcome for what they are; musicians who enjoy music and like the intimacy of an appreciative audience.

Mostly though, the song and dance is provided by the local patrons of the pub with accompaniment by Una, Dickie’s wife on her keyboard, and any other visiting troubadour or musician. 

Eastersnow has been noted by scholars in The Annals of the Four Masters, The Heart of Ireland by P.A. Sharkey and by John O’Donovan but to those who call it home it is a place where we are all present and accounted for and above all—welcome.